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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.